Nurglefication, DavicusPrime Style

About This Video

Published on: Dec 18, 2008

An attempt to demonstrate how I turn a standard Chaos marine plastic mini into an oozing devotee of Papa Nurgle.

GAME: Painting and Modelling

TYPE: Other

ARMIES: Chaos Space Marines

Nurglefication, DavicusPrime Style!

Purpose: In this How-To I intend to demonstrate all the ways I go about using Greenstuff (GS) to convert standard chaos marine plastics into nurgle loving, plague carrying space zombies.

I have put some step-by-step pieces together to demonstrate the basic techniques and I've got some in process pics of a chaos terminator to Plague Terminator conversion that I will use to show some practical application and how you can combine them to good effect.

I’m going to assume that you have a basic understanding as to how you mix and work with GS for this article. If you need more pointers on GS basics there are many good tutorial videos and articles on this site and associated forum that will get you up to speed.

Tools
For all the projects I have done in this article, these three tools are all I used.

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From top to bottom:
A Flat Edged Mini Screwdriver. It’s good for spreading out the GS and making small flat edges. I also use it to round out circular shapes.
A Pointed Sculpting Tool. It is great for making depressions, holes, grooves and stretching the material and almost everything else.
A Hobby Knife. I use it to make long flat edges and to mark thin lines/depressions in the GS.

So how do I go from this?
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To this?
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BASIC TECHNIQUES

Well lets start with the easy bits first and move on up the difficulty scale… Everything assumes the use of the pointed sculpting tool unless stated differently.

Rot
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1 - Place the desired amount of GS on the model.
2 - Stretch the GS with a sculpting tool to cover the desired area.
3 - Use the point of the tool to stab the GS repeatedly and drag it out toward the edges and/or toward the center as desired to create the look of a corroded pock filled mass.

Three Pock Mark Symbol of Nurgle
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1 - Starts the same as rot.
2 - Push the point of the sculpting tool into the GS where you want to create the first pock mark. And gently spread the opening out with a circular motion of the tool.
3-4 – Repeat 2 until you have your three holes.

HINT: Each pock mark you make after the first may distort the previous ones. This is okay. Once you have them all started, you can go back and shape them until you’re happy with the orientation and shape.

5 - now just like you do for patches of rot, drag the point of the tool toward the pock mark to create a slope up toward the pock itself and then away from the pock mark to show the rot radiating from the open wound. Also poke and drag the material between the pocks to create furrows between them to further define them from each other.

HINT: Pock marks can be added anywhere you use the rot effect. Alone or in clusters. Same goes for the next two techniques.

Intact Abscess
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1 - Starts out the same as a patch of rot (this should sound familiar now) but with a little extra material in the center.
2 - Build up a mound of material in the location that you want the boil.
3 - Shape the mound to look like a giant white headed pimple (this is where I typically employ the mini screwdriver) and then spread the edges and detail just like you would for a pock mark.

Skulls
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1 - Starts out the same as an… abscess (Tricked ya there didn’t I?)
2 - Make the eye sockets similar to the way you make a pock mark.
3 - Now shape the cranium. To smooth things out I use the shaft of the pointed tool sideways to roll the material out like a tiny rolling pin. You can also use the mini screwdriver to do this, by sliding the flat edge around to flatten it out around the top of the noggin.

HINT: Like the pock marks, everything you do will shift what you’ve already made. In this case, shaping the cranium will typically shift the eye sockets. Just go back and tweak things back into place after each step.

4 - Shape the upper jaw and cheek bones.
5 - Now use the tip of the pointy tool to make the nose. On very small skulls the point of a pin or the tip of a hobby knife is a better size to make the nasal hole.
6 - Use the Hobby knife to put thin lines for the teeth around the edge of the upper jaw.

Ooze
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This one is hard for me to make a step by step. It’s actually one of the more difficult things for me, mostly because it needs to be fairly smooth and very small.
1 – Place the GS on your model… But not like you do for rot. You need to start with a very small amount. I’ve found that this usually works best if there is a feature on the model that the ooze might be coming from like a wound or a vent.
2 – Take the GS and form a rounded teardrop on the lower end and then spread the other end out like rivulets that have oozed together to form the drop.

THE TERMINATOR

So how did I apply these things to the terminator pictured above? The basic rot, pock mark and ooze stuff is exactly as described above. I'd like to show you more on the shoulder with the three skulls as it uses the techniques above but shows how most everything builds from rot into something else. And then there are two things I hadn't tried before that incorporate the above techniques while creating something new that I'd like to show you more of.

Three Skull Shoulder Pad
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These start, you guessed it, just like rot. I scraped off the eye that was on the shoulder to keep it from getting in the way, but I could have just left it. I then covered it with GS. Then I made my three mounds of material. This could easily have become three abscesses instead of skulls at this point, then I followed the same process for a single skull above… three times.

Complete skull on Axe
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I have never tried to make a complete skull before this nor had I tried making a lower jaw. So this was a stretch. The main part of the skull went together the same as usual, but then I had to stretch out and shape a lower jaw. For a first try this came out pretty well. For the rear of the skull I just made a rounded oval.

Disease Vents
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This one works very much like making pock marks only taller. I started by adding a ridge of GS to each side where the usual trophy racks are supposed to be. Then I shaped them into three tall mounds and ran the GS together between the ridges. I hollowed out the tubes the same as if they were just tall pock marks and did the usual rot and random pock marks everywhere else.

So there you go. I hope this has been useful to you and maybe gave you some ideas for your own creations.

Happy War Gaming!

-DavicusPrime
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