How To Make Wargames Water Features
Ever wanted to have a realistic lake for your miniature scene or model railway? This tutorial shows how to create a full lake with reeds and other interesting features.
This took me 10 minutes to create (drying time much longer, 24 hours for the lake to dry!) and would probably take longer normally: I was in a massive rush to get this done! That’s something a modeller has got to learn early on, otherwise the end product does not dry well!
A written set of instructions:
You will need;
- Water Effects Bottle (Javis Realistic Water used in this tutorial
- Talus of any kind (Gaugemaster Talus used in this tutorial
- Blue acrylic / poster paint(s)
- Static grass (Games Workshop static grass used in this tutorial)
- Any PVA Glue
- FINE Brush!
1). Using your Brush paint an outline in PVA of your lake. Try to make it small; it gets harder as you make it larger. Make sure the PVA is applied thick so it is several millimetres deep.
2). Apply the talus on this PVA. It may be a wise idea to make this barrier a few stones wide, depending on how fine your talus is.
3). Paint your lake surface in blue. LET THIS DRY, else your lake Surface will mix and look horrid!
4). Once this has dried, apply your realistic water no thicker than 4mm. It will naturally spread itself over time so don’t apply too much.
5). Make sure the whole surface is covered. If there is too much and it is overflowing then add more talus where it is leaking and the talus will dry.
6). After 24 hours apply scatter around the lake. Add clump foliage, lichen and trees to make it look more scenic!
That brings us to the end of the tutorial. Heres the review for it!
Overall score: 5M
The Javis still water says it can do what’s on the bottle — can such a cheap bottle of realistic water create such good looking lakes? I with no doubt say that the answer, is yes!
Not bad, eh?
Read on a bit here!
The Javis still water comes in a 250g bottle. It is small and lightweight, and also is designed very well so that you don’t end up squeezing the life out of it just for a small amount to come onto your display.
The product, when applied into its cavity, spreads evenly over the surface. It tends to stay a few millimetres thick. As with all waters, if you attempt to make it thicker it has disastrous consequences, and dries like a crumpled sheet of paper. This is not something that is just specific to the Javis water but to all waters we are in the process of reviewing!
Another great point is that the drying time can be shortened. A modest 20 minutes with a hairdryer stood on a tripod quickens the drying time formidably and enables you to sculpt your own waves and contours within the water. Refrain from using uour hands or a brush-end, cocktail sticks do wonders here. When it is slightly drier, with possibly 10 minutes drying time with added heat, features can be added without moving or sinking a little, such as Noch laser cut minis or reeds and bulrushes. These can be easily created by cutting the tips off of old brush heads or new ones if you’re feeling spoilt! The full tutorial on how to spruce your lake is in the How-To’s section, link HERE.
The only disadvantage has been resolved now. The bottle lids used to be packaged rather poorly so that the nib covering would pop off and the nozzle would dry. The water however was fine. You would just have to use a thin knifehead or pin to clear it. Javis now have very generous packaging and in my case they sellotaped up the whole nozzle so that no air could enter the bottle and begin the drying process.
Overall, we allocate this product a very humble 5M
Ease of use: 5/5
Free product courtesy of Javis, our supplier of review materials. Personal thanks to Paul Bridge, manager and good friend with our chaps!
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