Comments on: How to Make Warhammer Modeling Flock

By: Rah hen ya

Rah hen ya — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 19:32:32 +0000

this haz saved me TONZ of money. i was just about to buy a load of flock but now i can make it

By: Jim

Jim — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:41:55 +0000

I used this technique to make a huge amount of flock very quickly. My advice is use the window screen to sift the sawdust first, then mix with paint, then dry and sift again to get very fine flock. Second, you can dry it on a plastic sheet or garbage bag if you dont want to make a mess on a cookie sheet. Lastly, make three different shades of flock, let them dry, sift them and mix them together dry for a more natural look.

By: Sean

Sean — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 15:51:45 +0000

Is there a material that can be used as an alternative to styrofoam boards for makeing bunkers with.

By: i wanna collect necrons

i wanna collect necrons — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:16:37 +0000

it didnt work for me it just ended up in a splog of paint with sand armound it

By: Shortsonfire79

Shortsonfire79 — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 07:44:34 +0000

So..if you think about it, you can make the modeling sand using the same process right? Just use brown paint instead of green?

By: higa biga

higa biga — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 00:51:05 +0000

will a pie sheet work instead of cookie sheet?

By: Kalimeros

Kalimeros — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 01:30:23 +0000

I’ve tried with cloth stain (in Argentina it’s called ‘anilina’) and it worked very well. Then I tried with different mixes of acrylic paints or paint intended for paint on fabric (I don’t know how it’s named in English, that of a watery base of gummy resin that attach very well to cotton fabrics), Acrylex from Brasil, o Polydor from Argentina. Acrylics bring more control over the yellowish/blueish balance, while fabric colours give a more dull finish (good for soft greens typical of new vegetation). Wood sawdust give a wide range of grains, that could be sorted by sieving (two sieves in my case, thus ending with three different flocks). MDF or similar, cut with a saw of small teeth, give a very fine grain that take several days to take color, but looks very real at small scales (15 mm or less). In that case I use a glass flask with lid to prevent spillages. Finally, pine wood cut with a big saw gives very coarse sawdust, with many long and curly fibers, which are very good to add variety to bushes and hedges. For that “fallen leaves” look, I use dry linden flowers, smashed at will. They look very good mixed with barely tinted sawdust.

By: pinky 19

pinky 19 — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 20:53:48 +0000

i bought my flock that i use for $50 for a fourth of what you made

By: Phillip

Phillip — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 20:32:24 +0000

After using your blog as a reference I have a couple suggestions that make this even better. First, USE wood shavings instead of straight sawdust (I got mine from a cabinet shop for free). This has a twofold effect: first when you sift it you can make it as small as you want, and it absorbs the paint/water mixture really well). I doubled your recipe to make sure I had enough and found that a 326 ml tube mixed with 1100 mL of water was ideal. Now for the best part. Instead of using a strainer I used an old window screen I had lying around. I placed the window screen over a collection pan, then used my hand to rub the dried flock over the screen. This removes clumps, makes the desired texture of flock (depends on how much you rub) and collects anything unwanted easily. Just some ideas.

By: the hive mind

the hive mind — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:35:50 +0000

you know what i think that if you betch madfe this you could sell it.