Ok, so you want to create a 4′ x 4′ grassland gaming board, but you realize that in order to do so, you will have to buy about $200 worth of modeling flock!
That is the problem that Dave and I ran into as soon as we started making gaming terrain, and it was one of the first experiments we decided to tackle. Since we wanted to “simulate” working on a tight budget (ok, we are working on a tight budget, I’ll admit it), this was something we had to overcome.
So I started doing some digging. After considerable research (if I don’t find something through Google it probably doesn’t exist) I finally found an article that taught us how to make modeling flock.
Both Dave and I were pretty excited. We had found a way to make $100 worth of modeling flock for only $1!
However, we quickly found that the instructions were very inadequate. Our first attempt at creating modeling flock produced these results:

The modeling flock was very brown (not green like grass) and it was much MUCH coarser than the Games Workshop version.
Nevertheless, Dave and I would not give up that easily. It took us four tries before getting the recipe just right, but we did it!
So without further delay, here are the detailed instructions on how to make modeling flock:
(Please note: The images here are from our first failed attempt, but since I don’t have updated images of our successful attempts - which I will have soon - they will have to suffice. The images are still mostly accurate to show you the various steps. I will update the new images as soon as I have them ready.)
Step 1 - Get Your Materials Ready
Here is what you’ll be needing:
-a container to mix it in (we use a gallon sized ice cream container)
-a cookie sheet to dry the modeling flock on (don’t use new ones, your mother / wife won’t be happy)
-a tube of green paint (in the picture it shows a tube of blue paint and a tube of yellow paint, but we found it easier to just get a tube of green paint)
-water
-a stirring stick
-sawdust (that’s right, modeling flock is just dyed sawdust!)
-a fine strainer
The tubes of paint that we use are 4 U.S. fl oz, or 118 mL. We buy them at the dollar store for $1.
You can get the sawdust from any lumber mill. They should be more than happy to hand over a garbage bag full free of charge. If not, then just find someone you know who is a carpenter.
The sawdust should have been made from sanding, not from cutting wood.
Step 2 - Water Down The Paint
You will first need to water down the paint that you are using to dye the saw dust. The amount that you water down will determine how much flock you make.
We will typically empty the entire 118 mL tube of green paint into the container and then fill the container 3cm (about 1 1/4 inches) full of water.
WARNING: If you water down the paint too much your flock will be brown. That was our first mistake which ended up with the ugly stuff you saw in the first picture. Even though it started out a nice green it ended up an ugly brown, which was useful only to be used as dirt and not grass.
Mix the water and paint with a stirring stick. We just used the typical stirring sticks that you get from the paint stores, but you can really use anything that you don’t care getting stained with green paint.
(Important Note: The colour of your flock will be slightly browner than the green paint that you mix, so choose a colour paint that is slightly brighter than your desired modeling flock colour.)
Step 3 - Add the Sawdust
The next step is to add the sawdust. First add a small amount to turn the watered down paint mixture into a thick sludge. Then continue adding more and more sawdust until it is mixed in well.
The easiest way to tell when to stop adding sawdust is when you add a bit more and it is very hard to mix in (i.e. it is hard to get rid of the brown sawdust). This is the point where you should stop.
Warning: If you stop sooner than this your flock will not be fine enough. However, don’t expect your flock to be as fine as the Games Workshop version at this point. That will come later.
You should end up with something like this (but greener if you didn’t water your paint down too much):
Once you have finished mixing the flock you are ready to move to Step 4.
Step 4 - Spread Out Your Modeling Flock to Dry
You will now need to spread out the modeling flock to dry. We use two cookie sheets to dry out the amount of flock made with our proportions.
Spread out the damp modeling flock as evenly as possible, then put it in a non-windy location for 24-48 hours. Make sure it is completely dry before proceeding to the next step, otherwise you will not get the same quality as what Games Workshop produces.
Step 5 - Screen the Modeling Flock To Make It Finer
The last thing you will need to do is take a fine strainer (that’s a strainer that has small openings, not a good looking strainer…_ and screen the modeling flock through it.
There may be clumps that are just too hard. You can either work really hard to get them through, or just toss them aside for another use (mossy rocks?).
Here is what it should look like at the end (this picture is of our good flock):
And that’s it! You’ve just made $100 of flock for only $1!
Here are just a few pictures of stuff Dave and I made using our modeling flock (click the images to enlarge):
Enjoy!
The Mini War Gaming Webmaster






36 users commented in " How to Make Warhammer Modeling Flock "
Follow-up comment rss or Leave a TrackbackAwesome! I always hated spending that much money at the stores.
Thanks for the great tip!
Dude that is going to save me a lot of money, thanks!
Could you use sand instead of sawdust?
Thanks for the great replies!
Jake: I’ve never tried it with sand, but I’m guessing that it wouldn’t work as well.
Having said that, whenever we create our terrain boards we usually use sand to cover them and then paint the sand, so I guess it could work.
Why don’t you try it out and let us know!
This is simply amazing. I work at a place where I have all of the elements to put this together close at hand. After reading this, I’m going to make some of my own flock immediately…like tomorrow. I eagerly await more sage-like wisdom from you guys.
Thanks for the great comment Eric! Just let us know what else you would like to learn and we will most likely create an article on it.
For anyone that interested, I measured out and weighed the amount of water that this “recipe” calls for and it comes out to around 725 ml (24.5 ounces). Hope that helps anyone that doesn’t have a gallon container of ice cream handy.
Oh and in answer to the above question… Since I’m working up steam to put together my first gaming table, I’m anxiously awaiting part two of the “how to make a gaming table blog”. Ya know… cuz I need to see how I’ll be able to finish the top of it =)
I wonder what result you would get if you used green cloth dye or food coloring instead of water and paint.
Also, instead of ruining cookie sheets, why not use some wax paper?
If I ever have the room in my house to make a permanently standing gaming table, I might give that a try.
Actually, scratch the wax paper, if the sawdust is still wet it will soak through. You can buy one-time cooking and baking sheets from most grocery stores for less than a cookie sheet though.
Thanks for the great comment Robert!
Actually I’ve seen people use green cloth dye and food coloring, and both work quite well.
As for the cookie sheets, we just go to the dollar store and get them each for $1, so they aren’t too expensive.
Having said that, the idea of wax paper would work as well, although it’s not quite as reusable as a cheap cookie sheet.
Mini War Gaming Webmaster
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol, i was just about to give up war hammering because i’m to cheap to complete my table =P my dad’s a carpenter and im going to definatley use this tomorrow XD thanks guys.
AWESOME TY very much for this article i was about to quit just like andrew was lol
Andrew and Hayden - glad we could save you and get you back into Warhammer!
If you guys dont have the time or have failed using this method go to any hobby site/ shop for trains and look for woodland scenics flock its about 8 to 10 bucks for a shaker and if used right at most you will need is 2 for a 4X 6 table on the plus side there are tons of colors you can find this stuff in.
Also since Im here check this link out, its how to model with foam, good link I have learned alot from watching these videos. The link will take you to another forum but has the videos 1 -10 posted which are on you-Tube.
http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=87013
Good luck,
Mike
thats helped me make my grassland board, thanks im gonna start making some hills with this flock stuff covering it…
This is the best tip so far; I never knew making flock could be so simple.
thanks the other sites tell you how to do it rong and i was just abuot to give up becaruse iv been spending so much money on stuff like flock
how do u get the terrain E-book?
i think miniwargaming is GRRRRRRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just fill in your name and email address in the box right up above the comments and you’ll be mailed the link.
If you did that already and still didn’t get it, email us at support@miniwargaming.com and we’ll take care of it for you.
i tried it with sand it works awesome!
iv just started warhammer and iv seen the prices off all the buildngs and other items and i was like in shock there was about 10 building for about 300$ then i came here and found out i could use foam and it would look just as good im shocked and the flock is a good idea =] keep working on more ideas i can steal haha
I LOVE this stuff it works awesome and if you dont have any sawdust from sanding all me and my friend did was take the sawdust from sawing stuff and we just put it through a fine strainer. It works great and thanks again for helping out.
wicked tip guys its a perfect way to get started using flock because i only just joined 2-3 months ago :)!!! ty
eould cut saw dust work?
This is so Awsome!!!
you know what i think that if you betch madfe this you could sell it.
After using your blog as a reference I have a couple suggestions that make this even better. First, USE wood shavings instead of straight sawdust (I got mine from a cabinet shop for free). This has a twofold effect: first when you sift it you can make it as small as you want, and it absorbs the paint/water mixture really well). I doubled your recipe to make sure I had enough and found that a 326 ml tube mixed with 1100 mL of water was ideal. Now for the best part. Instead of using a strainer I used an old window screen I had lying around. I placed the window screen over a collection pan, then used my hand to rub the dried flock over the screen. This removes clumps, makes the desired texture of flock (depends on how much you rub) and collects anything unwanted easily. Just some ideas.
i bought my flock that i use for $50 for a fourth of what you made
I’ve tried with cloth stain (in Argentina it’s called ‘anilina’) and it worked very well. Then I tried with different mixes of acrylic paints or paint intended for paint on fabric (I don’t know how it’s named in English, that of a watery base of gummy resin that attach very well to cotton fabrics), Acrylex from Brasil, o Polydor from Argentina. Acrylics bring more control over the yellowish/blueish balance, while fabric colours give a more dull finish (good for soft greens typical of new vegetation). Wood sawdust give a wide range of grains, that could be sorted by sieving (two sieves in my case, thus ending with three different flocks). MDF or similar, cut with a saw of small teeth, give a very fine grain that take several days to take color, but looks very real at small scales (15 mm or less). In that case I use a glass flask with lid to prevent spillages. Finally, pine wood cut with a big saw gives very coarse sawdust, with many long and curly fibers, which are very good to add variety to bushes and hedges. For that “fallen leaves” look, I use dry linden flowers, smashed at will. They look very good mixed with barely tinted sawdust.
will a pie sheet work instead of cookie sheet?
So..if you think about it, you can make the modeling sand using the same process right? Just use brown paint instead of green?
it didnt work for me it just ended up in a splog of paint with sand armound it
Is there a material that can be used as an alternative to styrofoam boards for makeing bunkers with.
I used this technique to make a huge amount of flock very quickly. My advice is use the window screen to sift the sawdust first, then mix with paint, then dry and sift again to get very fine flock. Second, you can dry it on a plastic sheet or garbage bag if you dont want to make a mess on a cookie sheet. Lastly, make three different shades of flock, let them dry, sift them and mix them together dry for a more natural look.
this haz saved me TONZ of money. i was just about to buy a load of flock but now i can make it
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